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Everything is related
to Naples
entry
Mar
2009
Number 23 in a
series. Links to parts:
We
Hold these
Noodles to be Self-Evident...
Besides that thing that starts “When in the
course of human events…,” Thomas Jefferson’s other immortal line was
“The best
maccaroni [sic] in Italy is made with a particular sort of flour
called semola, in Naples.” (See
image. below.) True,
he misspelled maccheroni, but even the Oxford English
Dictionary has 6 or 7
spellings for it, from macaroni (the
most common English version) to mackerony.
In Italian, the singular is maccherone;
the
plural
(obviously
the most
common form, unless you are anorexic) is maccheroni.
The only correct Italian spelling
in English I have found is one from 1711 by Joseph Addison, who used maccherone to mean “a fool.”
Somewhat later, the
term “macaroni” gained
currency in English in the meaning of “fop” or “dandy”—a foolish
individual
given to affectation and excesses of foreign fashion, real or imagined.
(There
was even a Macaroni Club in London
where
they
walked
around in outlandishly high wigs with ridiculous caps
on top, probably the origin of the Yankee Doodle line, "...stuck
a
feather in his hat and called it macaroni.") That meaning might be related to an earlier
English and even Italian meaning of the adjective “macaronic” (maccheronico in Italian) to mean an
unintentionally clumsy or affected jumble of language as a result of
trying to
show off what little Latin you know in your everyday speech. Can I get
an amen on that? Or at least an e pluribus gluteus?)
So everyone is
confused, especially the
publishers of La settimana
enigmistica, a little Italian magazine of puzzles and
miscellaneous
information that my wife goes through faithfully every week. They tell
us that
“US president Thomas Jefferson loved spaghetti
from the moment he tasted it in Naples, and took
4 crates of it back home with him.
But not all of his countrymen felt the same way; there were even a few
who used
it to decorate their hats.” (I know. I have caved in and used “it” even
though spaghetti is plural. In Italian, you would have
to say
"them.")
The item from the magazine is macaronically
confused. The editors may have
read that Jefferson had visited Italy
(true, but not Naples) and also have heard about the Yankee
Doodle line cited above; indeed, they know also that Boston,
Philadelphia and London (the Macaroni Club) are all in that same
mysterious land known as "Somewhere Else" (where they speak Otherese)
so they put two and two together and came up with
seven.
Thomas Jefferson's
drawing of a macaroni machine
and
instructions for making pasta, ca. 1787.
Thomas Jefferson was
the US minister to France from 1785 to 1789.
During that time, he did a great many things:he helped negotiate
a
loan from
Dutch bankers to consolidate U.S. debts; he drafted a proposal to form
a
concert of
powers led by the United States to oppose the North African "Barbary
Pirates"; he hosted Lafayette and other liberals in his
home in secret when the French revolution broke out; he worked
on getting the skeleton and hide of a moose to Paris to refute the
argument that nature, animals, and,
by implication, humans in the New World were less developed and smaller
in stature than those on the European continent; and he traveled
around a
lot, intensely interested in local geography, agriculture, customs—and
food. He even had his servant—his slave, really—James Hemings learn the
art
of French
cuisine. (I don't know how the revolutionary Liberté,
égalité, fraternité crowd hiding in
Jefferson's home felt about eating fine food prepared by a slave.)
Jefferson
indeed, traveled to Italy,
but only to the north—primarily Turin, Milan and Genoa.
He took notes in Rozzano (9 km from Milan)
on how to make parmesan cheese, and somewhere picked up the very sound
counsel that
the best “maccaroni” in Italy
is made in Naples. He
decided to
buy a machine to make the stuff, but apparently couldn’t find exactly
what he
wanted, so he shipped some pasta flour home and then, being Thomas
Jefferson,
designed his own machine (illustration, above) to keep himself in
noodles forever. His
instructions on how to make macaroni start with the line cited (above)
about
Naples. He may,
thus, be responsible —ugh!— for “mac & cheese,” but there is no
evidence
that he ever stuck a feather in his cap and called it anything but a
feather. I
feel sure, however, that Tom knew how to ride a pony. In fact, I will
stake my
life, my fortune and my sacred honor on it.
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