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Miscellaneous churches
4 to parts: (1) (2) (3) (5) (6)
The church contains a bust of San Gaetano, invoked by the people as a protector from the great plague of 1656 and at the origin of a typically Neapolitan story. Farmers coming down to this church from the San Martino hill had to walk a ways along the outside of the city wall and come in through the major Royal Gate past the church of the Spirito Santo. Rather than do all that walking, they simply knocked a hole in the wall nearer to their church and came straight on in. The Spanish viceroy at the time, Ramiro Guzman, finally caved in and officialized the hole, calling upon the great architect, Cosimo Fanzago, to make it into a worthy gate. He did, after which it was called Porta Medina. To the people, it was Porta "Pertuso"—Neapolitan dialect for "hole". All the walls and gates in that area were eliminated in the 1870s, and the guardian bust of San Gaetano, mounted over "The Hole" was moved into the church. Chapel of San Giovanni di
Pappacoda is in
the heart of the
historic center of Naples, one block east of the major road, via
Mezzocannone, in the university district. It is across from the "Orientale" university of Naples in the
square of San Giovanni Maggiore.
The chapel was founded in 1415 by Artusio
Pappacoda, a
nobleman of the Angevin court. The chapel was redone in the 1770s and
little remains of the original late-Gothic frescoes and ornamentation
within the chapel, itself. The ornamental main portal is the work of Antonio Baboccio da Piperno (1351-1435), He was a goldsmith, architect and sculptor. (Since his name, Piperno, is also the name of one of the most used kinds of rock used in building—"peperino" in English—used in building, one is tempted to think that his surname was derived from his craft (such as "Smith" or "Cartwright"). He is well known for his work on the cathedrals of Milan, Naples, and Messina, as well as works in France; he was one of the primary "cathedral builders" of the Angevin dynasty in France and Italy. Not seen in this photo is the small Gothic belfry on the north-east corner of the chapel. It, too, is by Piperno and was retained during the 18th-century restoration. The well-known San Vitale church in Fuorigrotta that was simply called "the church"—it went without saying— goes back to the 1300s and was one of the most sacred and revered houses of worship in the area. That lasted until the 1930s when Mussolini's mega-builders—to the horror of the local population—decided to tear it down to make room for a broad new street to the brand new Mostra d'Oltemare, the overseas fairgrounds. The new church of San Vitale (photo), thus, is not really that old. It contains art and ornamentation from the original church and, most importantly, a plaque that informs you that this—from 1837 until 1939 (when the original church was demolished) was where the tomb of the greatest of all Italian Romantic poets, Giacomo Leopardi, was to be found. (When the demolition came, Leopardi's tomb was moved to the reputed final resting place of another poet, Virgil.) Santa Maria degli Angeli a Pizzofalcone. In spite
of the surrounding urban sprawl that has encroached upon this church
since it was finished in 1610, it is still easy to see from many spots
in the western part of the city. In those days, if you walked out
the front door of the church and turned right, you would within a few
minutes be at the
Pizzofalcone cliff overlooking the bay and the Egg Castle (Castel dell'Ovo). The property
had originally (1587) been given to the Theatine order by Costanza del
Carretto, d'Oria, princess of Melfi. The interior of the church is
perfectly rectangular and is so strikingly symmetrical in the positions
of the naves, transept and apse that an early comment on the structure
was that it was "best-proportioned church in Naples." The church
contains significant art from the 1600s and 1700s. Also, some damage
done to the structure in WWII has been repaired. The Theatine monastic
order was suppressed (as were all religious orders) by the government
of Murat in
1808, and though the church remained open, the gardens and the
monastery, itself, were taken over for
other purposes. Today, for example, one part of the old monastery is
now a military court-room; another has been incorporated into the
adjacent Politeama , one of the most popular venues in Naples for
plays and musical theater.
The premises of this church-hospital have changed owners a few times since then and the current physical configuration is the result of centuries of rebuilding and transformation, some quite recent. As it appears now, the church still stands and has recently been painted. The rest of the original church/monastery/hospital complex has been subdivided over the centuries and taken over by secularism. Very secular—there's an antique shop and a hardware store, I believe, and a lot of the square block is just taken up by apartments. With the suppression of
religious orders under Murat in the
early 1800s, the church was confiscated by the state but restored to
the order after the return of the Bourbon monarchy. It was restored in
1857. After the earthquake of 1980, it was restored again. On that
occasion, however, the lovely majolica tiles of the dome were removed
but never returned. The façade of the church, in its current
state, is unadorned. The interior is in the form of a Latin cross with
a single nave covered by a barrel vault; there four chapels on each
side, and at the front there is a semi-circular apse. The inside of the
church is of significant artistic interest and holds, among other
things, frescoes by Giovanni Lanfranco
and Francesco Solimena as well as a series
of paintings by Luca Giordano. The
chapels contain paintings by, among others, Paolo
de Matteis. One tomb within the church was sculpted by Giuseppe Sanmartino, sculptor of the famed
statue of The
Veiled Christ. The Baroque sacristy is from 1626 and was
later restored by Ferdinando Sanfelice
and is regarded as one of the most beautiful works of its kind in
Naples. San Gennaro al Vomero is one of the
new churches in the Vomero, “new” meaning during the urban expansion of
that section of Naples in the 1880s and 90s, a period that saw the
opening of four new parishes in Vomero. The church was finished in 1892
and is located one block north of Piazza Vanvitelli. The design is classicheggiante —that is, in
imitation of classical style—as is clear from the façade. The
architect was Luigi Bottino. The church has had to undergo two
restorations in its relatively brief history—one after the earthquake
of 1930 and other after the quake of 1980.There is significant artwork on the premises from earlier ages, including some from monasteries that no longer exist. The oldest work of art in the church is the oil painting on wood of The Life of Saint Benedict dated to 1475. to main index to: Miscellaneous churches (1) (2) (3) (5) (6) |